What comes to mind when you think of Eastern European cuisine? If your reference points are anything like ours, you'll be picturing root vegetables, dumplings and strong liquor. At the end of 2019 we had a weekend pre-Christmas getaway to a destination neither of us had visited before, the city of Bratislava. The Slovakian capital is immensely proud of its history, and at the same time you can see the influences from the surrounding countries (Austria, Czechia, Hungary, Poland and Ukraine). Roots, spirits and pierogis are readily available, but they're only a small sample of what the city has to offer to keep you going as you explore the sights. We highly recommend visiting for the food alone, but we also have some recommendations for what to see while you're there and how to make the most of your trip.
Our first stop of the weekend was the famed Slovak Pub, and as the name suggests it's a traditional Slovakian pub and restaurant, known for traditional and affordable food. We ordered a couple of their own beers while browsing the menu, and we decided to try their garlic soup served in a bowl made of bread (tastes like the best garlic bread you'll ever have), and a platter of assorted Slovakian dishes including dumplings with sheep's cheese (bryndzové halušky). The soft, tangy cheese, a Slovakian speciality, is sprinkled over potato dumplings which are similar to Italian gnocchi in texture, along with with pieces of smoked bacon and sausage. All very wholesome and substantial without being overly heavy.
Later that evening we took a walk through the picturesque Old Town. Before dinner, we paid a visit to Grand Cru Wine Gallery, where we sampled a selection of Slovakian wines in an underground cave-like cellar. The hosts are highly knowledgeable and happy to recommend something you haven't heard of which will immediately become one of your favourites wines. If you would like to taste some locally produced wine, we cannot recommend this place enough!
As we were visiting in December, an enormous Christmas tree was glittering in pride of place in the main square, by the Old Town Hall. We made plans to visit the Christmas Market the next day, before heading to Koliba Kamzík, where we found a cheerful mixture of locals and tourists in a space that reminded us of a country kitchen. Here we ordered potato dumplings, smoked meat, sauerkraut, bacon and onions. Dessert consisted of more potato, this time with walnuts, poppy seeds, sugar and butter. We also went a bit mad and ordered five different kinds of slivovica, Slovakia's version of the plum spirits which are made across Central and Eastern Europe. Dinner was thoroughly traditional and all very well-made.
On Saturday, we had a full day to spend in the city and we couldn't wait to get started! First on the list was brunch at FACH, a sleekly designed cafe with fast and friendly service. We had strong and satisfying coffees, then sea buckthorn and turmeric elixirs from their juice bar, and creamy egg dishes with beetroot, smoked salmon, spinach and a hollandaise sauce so light that it was almost foamy. FACH also make excellent baked goods - we tried their sourdough, which was soft with a pleasant sweetness, as well as a cinnamon bun to take with us (so good we went back for more the next day!)
Walking uphill, we visited the gothic St Martin's Cathedral, looming over cobbled streets of yellow-painted houses. Walking around Bratislava is like exploring a fairytale, and icy weather throws the architecture into sharp relief. Dominating the cityscape is Bratislava Castle, and we walked up to the gates looking out at expansive views over the Old Town and the river Danube, popping into Mackafe, a cat cafe, for a warm drink and cuddle on the way.
We didn't expect to come across the other-wordly Multium - Space and Mirror Gallery, which is a collection of optical illusions and kaleidoscopic visual effects. Have a look around and be prepared for some fascinating tricks of the light.
Winding through narrow streets back into town, the Christmas market was in full swing, and we had to try the local mulled wine, of course. By then it was nearly time to get ready for the evening. We suggest having a pre-dinner cocktail at Spin, a modern and artfully lit cocktail bar, where the staff will challenge you to a series of games based around the idea of spinning, or you can simply enjoy something expertly mixed with a playful twist.
If you are looking for a truly memorable dining experience, Globo restaurant and wine bar is unmissable. The minimalist and elegant interior is a perfect backdrop for the impeccable presentation of their dishes. We had a tasting menu with matching wines from their own winery, which have been carefully chosen to harmonise with the flavours of each course. The waiters and sommeliers treat what they are serving you with what can only be described as reverence, and the care and precision behind each dish is clear to see.
After dinner, we went to the vibrant Antique American bar (run by a friend of the Globo staff), which is based on the infamous American Bar at the Savoy in London. We were welcomed by their creative mixology, and they have a good selection of classic cocktails as well. Lively atmosphere, and like everywhere we had visited in Bratislava, the staff are knowledgeable and friendly.
We couldn't leave without seeing the Church of St. Elizabeth, or the Blue Church as it’s more commonly known, on Sunday morning. This Art Nouveau church resembles an elaborately decorated wedding cake. It’s open in the early mornings and in the evenings, and surrounding it are some seriously impressive buildings with intriguing histories of their own. Take photos! Or pull out a selfie stick because you have no shame, whatever works for you (Anika.)
If you fancy a laugh, we should mention that Five Points brewery also serve coffee where you can have the foam on top designed to look like one of the photos on your phone. Food tastes better when paired with a cappuccino with a picture of your face on it. In our case, here's us in Bratislava, on a coffee in Bratislava:
If you decide to visit one of our favourite holiday destinations to date, we hope to have given you some inspiration for your trip. Have a wonderful time!
Stay salty af,
Anika & Fleurie